Ok Guys need a little help.
looking at having a little work doing on the block when i pull the engine.
need someone who will be able to grind and drill and tap the mating surface to the gear box.
thought i would ask here first before asking about some of the places near me.
I know what i need doing just need to find somewhere that can do it.
cheers
Ok so the rear end is back together
had an issue as to how to sort out the ARB to the arms as the ARB was too wide of the mounting point on the pins was too narrow.
after thinking it around a few times it will be sorted with 2 extra 1/2 male rose joints and some MountainBike shock reducers.
the other two are currently on the end of the steering rack but they will sit alongside the shock with a small spacer between.
in the meantime some work on some collected parts.
transfer-house breather opened up and threads cut.
setting up the steering parts
sorting the rear silencer
with new welder setup for stainless welding.
very good welder. makes it easy.
colour coding the SuperFins
first coat
new springs for the rear shocks
swapped out the studs on the rear hubs as the fitted ones are not long enough
had a delivery from KAD
the missing bits
small problem with the KAD axles they dont directly fit the Metro arms as the stop is recessed.
so the stop was machined down to 25mm
Done
then i popped into KAD on Tuesday.
they did not have everything for me to take then but the missing bits will be posted soon.
what i have is
more brake parts will be here soon but i can get started with the swap now.
a whole pile of bits from Minispares including a new steering rack-
also picked up some new tool boxes
in the sale
there were also other things like brake fittings and hose and
the goods from DSN
a set of hinges
water pump blank
take off changed to 32mm
timing cover
now the result of the trip to MED
First new steering arm assys.
steering parts
new shocks
bearings and windage tray
Ti clutch stop nuts
exhaust parts
some safety parts
new electric water pump and hoses
For AN Fittings you can check out Arlows.de as well. The do hold up pretty well and are available in black as well. I've also used their stainless bolt-clamps and I'm pleased with quality to price ratio.
Cheers
thanks for that will have a look later.
been busy getting ready for Brexit by deciding on what i needed to get before things get expensive. I dont trust the UK not to crash out.
so i have been off to see MED, AVO, KAD, Guessworks, Merlin Motorsports, 304 stainless exhausts and ordered parts from Endaf Owens, Mondo Motorsport and DSN and Mini spares.
here comes the pictures
try
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_…eywords=du+bush
08D08 Wrapped Steel Plain Bearing Bush 1/2x19/32x1/2 inch
is what i believe you need
Alles gut!
In erster Linie geht es mir schon um die Federelemente, aber die Erfahrung zu anderen PU-Teilen ist auch interessant.
Stabi-„Gummis“ fürn Motor aus PU hatte ich vor vielen Jahren auch schon probiert, die waren mir eher zu hart oder ich hab die falschen probiert. Gequietscht haben die aber nicht.Aber zurück zu den Federelementen: es klagen ja viele über die Qualität/Langlebigkeit der neuen Gummis. Da wäre es vielleicht interessant diese zu probieren, wie Andy aber schon bemerkt hat ist die Farbwahl sehr ungeschickt.
Mich hat es auch gewundert, dass das bei den englischen Händlern noch nicht aufgetaucht ist, die schrecken normalerweise vor nichts zurück. Aber vielleicht sind sie ja auch ganz neu auf dem Markt.
Grüße Daniel
the reason is they are not very good. just like the metal coils that some people sell.
if you want to improve your suspension fit new rubber cones made to the original specs. as made by M Part and sold by Minispares. PS ones made by Avon or have the Moulton name on them are not original spec or material.
i suggest have a watch of this.
https://youtu.be/iw4pFGfwZPM
it may help. show what you are trying to achieve.
As there is no correct measurement to cover all set ups.
Sooooo onto the next changes.
not happy with the catch tanks so will be making my own based on the MED under wing version. First i need to learn to TIG (WIG) weld i will also be changing the rocker cover so there are some inputs from the other breathers on the engine.
so i have some weld on parts.
and some AN fittings. these were soured from Ebay at a much lower price than the Speed flow items but as these will not be under pressure why not.
while the speed flow parts are made from one piece these are joined.
today i drove up to Bonn and met some of you guys and picked up some spares.
unfortunately the wheels that i was thinking on buying were not Mini fitting.
nothing wrong with most standard gearboxes. just change the final drive to suit your needs. OK first gear may hardly be used. as most straight cut gear sets still have a 4th gear giving a 1:1 output you can get a feel of the car and see where you want to make changes to the gears. then order a suitable gear set from MED or KAD.
unless you have changed the ring gear to the correct one the pre engage starter will have the wrong number of teeth as the Verto flywheel has 129 teeth and the preverto has 107 teeth. also the ring gear is shaped differently as the verto has shapped edges on the engine side while the pre verto has it on the inner wing side as that is the side the inertia drive enters.
start with counting the flywheel teeth to confirm that you have or have not got the correct ring gear fitted.
if the flywheel is on too far you tend to end up with a trapped primary gear meaning the car is hard or impossible to get into or change gear.
