Beiträge von Nicklouse

interesting reading. the link earlier is also very true about many things.

just a note on the RC40 construction that some may not know. the rear silencer box is actually two part. with a resonator in the first part and the silencer part to the rear. you can hear this on a new silencer by tapping on it. you can also see a weld spot part way down where the two chambers are separated.

i first found this out some time back in the 90s when my RC40 was getting louder and there was fiberglass packing hanging out of the pipe tip.

oh and if you are interested this is actually available (but you may still end up in the same position as you are now) as i have had to make a new whole system to incorporate a CAT

Zitat von miniwilli

That´s exactly as I am doing, so ist does not matter, what brand of bearing you are using (anyway, Timken is my choice!)

But with the Timkin you should be able to torque to 80Nm with no issues as they should be sized and match correctly.

I am not saying change anything as it is working though.

i would like to add some info on the subject that you may find interesting.

Timken Taper roller bearings should be tightened as per the Haynes or Rover or BLMC/BL/Austin etc... Manuals which stated the rear should be about 80Nm
as long as the races are seated in the hub correctly and the bearing sets have not been mixed. (all parts are numbered and matched) you should not have issues.

now we come onto other brands of bearings.

I recently decided to fit Alloy rear hubs from KAD. these do not come with Timken Taper roller bearings but as KAD say other high quality bearings.

the races were fitted by KAD all i had to do was grease and fit them. As i was aware of some issues i did not torque up fully straightaway but in steps spinning the hub each time. i soon could feel the hub binding.

So onto the phone to KAD. Their recommendation is to run them loose. so with the washer just able to move. make sure the split pin is the right size. and the nuts will not fall off as they will be trying to tighten in the normal rotational direction.

I will also be adding washers so that the an existing hole can be used.

new clutch assy 5.2kg

Ok today was spent thinking about the water works.

change of plan the pump will be placed in the dry deck pipes and the pipes on the front will go to the radiator "direct"
here is a mock up.

approximate pump position

while i was moving parts about I thought i would check some weights.

Standard flywheel (in parts and missing a few bolts) 7.2kg

so what about the flywheel i am replacing.
alloy flywheel with steel insert and ring gear. steel pressure plate grey spring and fiber friction plate.

just about the same as only the original flywheel

new flywheel assy should be under 5kg

Zitat von jack union

The "special fork tool" for the master caliper pin is ingenious!

Regards
Andreas

also good for engine mount bolts.

so as the engine will not be ready for a week or two i asked a friend if i could borrow a spare block.

success.
get a bracket made for engine stand.

then drop it onto the gearbox i borrowed from him as well.

so i can start working out the new cooling set up with the Davis Craig electric water pump.

Ok the engine work is almost done but we have a problem with the pistons.

new ones are on the way and these are going back.

new ones will have a surface spray on them to correct the fit.


engine should be available in a couple of weeks.

also welded up this

the pipe fitting is just the same i only adjusted the fit of the bracket.

so the two clutch MC studs were too short.
so lets swap them out


top tip for refitting the clevis pins

onto the stbilisers



and the rear of the rear mount

trying to fit washers to both sides of the "rose" joints on the brace bars was not really going to work so modified to Rocker cover nuts to use as "spacer" nuts

made up a mount for the resivoirs just need to finalize the hose routing.


still waiting on having the machining work finished.
should be ready to collect this week after a small issue was discovered.

ahhh i have been waiting for this thread.

fitted the KAD front brake hoses. as you can see a bit of a must if you have a front ARB

onto working out where to mount the reservoirs dont forget the Carb is to the right of them.

at least they are all the same.

been busy working of stuff under the car and rebuilding the gearbox a few time fitting the fire nozzles in the passenger compartment. running the new brake like to the front and through the bulkhead.

lots done not much to show.

i had forgotten some parts and i have been waiting on others.

also have an issue i did not think about. cant use one of the lower stabiliser bars with the MED pinion support found some inserts that i could machine down and weld onto a bracket but the bolts would be that long... nah.

so some oil and some stabilisers to play with.

nope threads are wrong

right threaded ones on the way.

needs to get on the jig and welded up.

well after spending that money on the KAD brake master cylinders the old clutch one was not looking that good.

So

can get the brackets sorted for the reservoirs now.

pointless fitting a DCOE without ram pipes and a decent filter. also pointless not using a decent length manifold. over 5 inch. if you want to fit a Weber without modifying the bulkhead you would do better just staying with the HIF44 on the cast Maniflow inlet manifold. (or a modified MG Metro manifold).

Zitat von Mini-ster

In german we say "It's at the ass of the world" if something or someone is too far away. 500km for a screen is too far.

true but when you are not that far away as you are dropping of parts for machining.

oh they have clear, green and clear with green sun strip. but yes a full tank of fuel on a round trip was a bit much. but needs must. As we say in English.

the main difference is that the start motors need changing to suit the different teeth on the ring gear. the Verto has 129 teeth and uses a 10 tooth starter motor the Pre Verto flywheel has 107 teeth and uses a 9 tooth stater pinion. they are generally not interchangeable.

so if you are changing flywheel type you will need to change the starter and the associated wiring.

no real progress at the moment just lots of building and stripping down and rebuilding.

but just a note on when buying parts please check them before fitting.

a few pictures will tell the story better than words.
before


after

before the application of a hammer

now to strip the gear box again.

Zitat von der Minibote

Hi Simon, hole meine immer bei Faxe Racing....hat sie immer da

thanks for the heads up about Faxe, as i was in the area i popped in today. what a gold mine of parts.

left with some gaskets and a new screen and a spider drive.

my type of place.

needed to borrow a gearbox so i can mock up the underfloor parts. so a quick call and keeping social distance i picked up a empty box. put on a spare remote diff housing and other parts.
and

why cant the whole engine be this light

so what has been happening.

lots of thinking about towing eyes and under body panels. (as the brace bars have changed).
the tow eye should not stop the front end being removed and i need to redo the flat floor. the problem was that they were mixed together.
made a decision on the tow eye just need to add some reinforcement around the stabiliser bracket as i will be using it.
so the tow eye. the yellow thing.

will add some reinforcement across the front and support the stabiliser at its other end.