THe efficiency is approximately 20% difference. Also please check the clearance of the blades before starting the engine as you may or may not need to add a spacer between the pulley and the fan. As it may have been removed.
As stated it is a very common issue. Some new fans no longer have engine side on them which has lead to some of these issues.
Good luck with your other problems as I have no idea on them.
yes I have already checked, everything was rebuilt [attach = '40816', 'none', 'false'] [/ attach]
just a comment, nothing to do with your problem but it does look like the cooling fan is on the wrong way around. The smooth center should face the engine not the radiator. On the original ones it even had “engine side” on the face. There is a reduction of about 20% of cooling ability when the fan is incorrectly fitted. If it is fitted correctly sorry but it just does not look right.
first you must set the return stop bolt and lock nut. Once that is set you set the lock nuts as per the book. The big nuts are only there to stop you over pressing the pedal and loading up the thrust bearing. They are actually nothing to to with the clutch set up. The very first cars did not have them. And they had thrust washer problems. So the stop nuts were introduced to stop this issue.
Again the main adjustment is the AF 7/16 bolt with lock nut.
I'll be using an A + engine with the late starter version. Possibly with a 7 port crossflow head which might lead to even more difficulties.
ohhhhhh roof scoop and twin down draft carbs?
Just a thought, as you are following the rear layout very closely to the original COX version will you be putting in the hole to clear the starter motor bendix? Or will it be using a later style starter?
Hello Ditmar, nice that my former GFK garage colleague is now being processed. I also want Rose Petal rims for my project. john brown wheels or minispares? Is there a huge difference in price, and probably also in quality?
JBW. Is the current name of MWS (Midland Wheel Services) and still have the same quality issues.
Alan Britton rossabitz @ btconnect.com
but this is only if you are going to use Mini hubs. it puts the top outer pivot points in the same plane. not hard to replicate.
There is a guy doing the perfect steering arm lock out for the rear now. That stops all bump steer etc. Will see if I can find a picture later.
They are no longer available new. Minivation have stoppped making them and closed as Ben is busy doing other things. They some times come up on UK eBay.
reconditioned engine
BHM1232 998cc - Low compression dished piston, CAM6267 camshaft, early cylinder head and crankshaft main bearings with side locator tang, A +
also not good for the seals
MMMMMMMmmmmmmm
ATF is mineral oil.
brake fluid is glycol based.
i cant see the seals liking the change.
As Diddi says the manual says Engine oil. and that is what would have been used at the factory to set it up.
but if the engine has been modified and the carb set up to run optimally then use whatever the tuner used for that set up and again there have been many used.
I have always used the same oil as that is in the engine and set the carb accordingly. makes it easier to top the dash pot up if needed in the middle of nowhere.
Thank's Nicklouse. That was the answer I was waiting for. So I think the easiest and best way for me is to build a manifold by my own.
I'm not happy with the price performance of the original and aftermarket manifolds.
some more info for you. The Midget manifolds are 10 or 15 degrees. While the Mini ones are 30 degrees. Now as mentioned the float chambers will need to be adjusted to be vertical. Some carbs allow this to be done. Others need the angle plate changing to allow the float bowl to be correctly positioned. So if wanting to use available float bowl spacers find out what angles are available. Or as you sound able make/modify your own.
Yes the standard manifolds are very poor. The Maniflow one is good. But they are very busy at the moment.
it certainly is not what it pretends to be.
in the uk would call it a ringer.
here is one been used. Not well but gives the idea.
It is for separating CV joints from drive shafts.
The back bit clamps onto the drive shaft. The CV threaded end goes through the hole and you tighten the hub nut pulling the CV of the axel.
Nothing else is needed it is all there.
You will need a Mini inlet manifold and spacers. The Inno had more space and maybe used a manifold like the Midgets used. You will also need to fit the mini float bowl fitting so that the float bowls are vertical.
can i come out to play yet?
What is the advantage of the Hardy variant? More stable?
To be fair there is no advantage. The pot joints give an even power transfer while the Hardy Spicers do not give as even a power transfer. More of a wave pattern depending on their angle.
But they are easier to work with.
