An English HillClimb rebuild.

Zitat von jack union

The "special fork tool" for the master caliper pin is ingenious!

Regards
Andreas

also good for engine mount bolts.

Ok today was spent thinking about the water works.

change of plan the pump will be placed in the dry deck pipes and the pipes on the front will go to the radiator "direct"
here is a mock up.

approximate pump position

while i was moving parts about I thought i would check some weights.

Standard flywheel (in parts and missing a few bolts) 7.2kg

so what about the flywheel i am replacing.
alloy flywheel with steel insert and ring gear. steel pressure plate grey spring and fiber friction plate.

just about the same as only the original flywheel

new flywheel assy should be under 5kg

new clutch assy 5.2kg

thanks to IDE things can move on a bit

hoses need to be cut to length and pipes made.
exhaust routing adjusted
and stabiliser mounts optimised not that the lower ones actually do anything.

here is a video of how much the lower stabilisers do.

this is with the engine mounts (good but old) done up tight. no head or upper stabilisers so me just rocking the block.
[video=youtube_share;c0vDblRHWdA]

Diddi,
Correct and that is why I have them. But as there is no option to run the left one any more are the MED pinion mount has no possibility of using it as I have before (since the 80s) and I often see people advocating the addition of the lower mounts to reduce engine rock. This was done to show the reality. I would have preferred to have continued with my original set up but not possible.

right now that the exhaust manifold can be fitted i can see how much material i need to take off the diff housing and gear change.

Ok next issue has bee where to fit the Lambda sensor. standard Mini place is not possible as i have a gear linkage housing in the way. dont want to put it in the LCB as it will only read half of the cylinders. so the only place is after the gear linkage housing and before the silencer starts.

so today i have been doing breathers. well i have been looking and scratching my head trying to work out how to do it as the KAD brakes cause routing issues.

well

and the two from the front of the engine

yes they fit under the bonnet

it is good having a neighbour who paints

now that the exhaust has the Lambda sensor position worked out back it goes so i can continue with the flatish floor.

cant get the exhaust fully in the tunnel, but i can work with that.

well what a fun month it has been, the Kat and Lamda sensor are no longer required as it will not be used here in Germany. As i will be returning to the UK.
on the plus side

so what has been going on today. lots of use of a marker pen and a carbide tip.

so innocent and sweet looking

mark grind and repeat until no more rocking.

i think you get the idea.

next was the DSN timing cover. i was aware that some people had been having issues with the cam sprocket position and have been asking about shims for the cam gear which is all not needed..........

so i put the cam assy on and the Crank gear was way proud of the cam gear eeer WTAF

played about with the bearing locating plate new and old. both measured the same and had just barely enough end float. but will do.

so the cam gear is not coming forward time to play about with the crank gear so out with the marker-pen and guess what

well some pics


the new crank has a nice radius on it which stops the crank gear from bottoming out.

gear modified and the gearset line up.

start adding bling

check timing tomorrow.

also set up the primary gear clearance way tight again with all new parts.

cam timing done. just need to finish the valve clearances.

had an issue with the engine steady and the dry deck.

just needs a suitable washer now.

so today's annoyance Head stud kits.

even when they are from the same maker you may not get what you think you are getting.

my ARP head stud kit cam with 4 rocker post studs that were the same length. did not think about if till i came to fit the DSN Oil filler cap

cap will not fit. standard black or red ones will fit.
so remove that stud and compare with a new Minispares one

not much in it but enough to allow the cap to fit.

it seems that the kit from MED has four studs the same length while the Minispares one has two long and two short ones.

should be going into the car tomorrow.

So on Saturday this happened

all the breather pipes fitted and there were no conflicts.

I had also previously changed out the reservoir connections to the master cylinders. works much better.

Today was spent attaching drive shafts (the short one was a real pain) and connecting the other water pipes and then looking to the electrics. some things have been moved (coil is where i planed the water pump and the water pump is where the coil was.) so will be making a new bracket.

you may remember me mentioning about removing metal from the gearbox and remote housing.

we have clearance.

new coil pack mount made. rad mounts adjusted with carriers for the wiring and sender pipes. just a little bit of wiring to sort and fit the rest of the exhaust.

and yes it does still all fit under the body.

then it will be time do add fluids.

wiring done, oil pressure acquired brakes and clutch bleed. just needs some fuel adding to it.

tomorrow should be fire-up day.